Food Life

Daring Cooks Challenge: Chinese Dumplings

My mother is Chinese and showed me how to make wontons as a child and I have since made them numerous times. She is not a stickler for authenticity and she enjoys convenience and so our ventures into these small bites was limited to the use of commercial wonton wrappers. I still use these wrappers, either filled or fried as chips and am not going to knock them. But this month challenge really is about making your own dumpling dough. It turns out it is easy although it is somewhat time consuming. And I am developing pregnancy related carpel-tunnel syndrome to boot! I suggest giving yourselves some time to roll and fill all those dumplings.

I made the pork version, slightly modified to use the ingredients I had. I used water chestnuts rather than bamboo shoots and I used about half as much ginger. I made the dough by hand because I hate to have to clean my food processor. The dough came out a bit dry after half a cup of water but I added a bit more water and it came together beautifully. I would judge by texture rather than worry about following the recipe exactly here but if you prefer, weigh the ingredients. Keep in mind that flour can absorb moisture from the air and Houston is fairly humid so that may interfere with texture as well. Also, it worked best for me to just roll and fill one at a time beacuse (despite that humidity) the dough would dry out and not stick to itself well if I rolled several wrappers at once and then went back to fill them. I steamed most of them and used the pot sticker method for what wouldn’t fit in the steamer. For either technique you can tell they are done when the filling is firm. These dumplings were a great hit with the kids and well worth a try.

Chinese Dumplings/Potstickers

pork filling:
1 lb (450g) ground pork
4 large napa cabbage leaves, minced
3 stalks green onions, minced
7 shitake mushrooms, minced (if dried - rehydrated and rinsed carefully)
1/2 cup (75g) bamboo shoots, minced
1/4 (55g) cup ginger root, minced
3 tbsp (40g) soy sauce
2 tbsp (28g) sesame oil
2 tbsp (16g) corn starch

OR

shrimp filling:
1/2 lb (225g) raw shrimp, peeled, deveined, and coarsely chopped
1/2 lb (225g) ground pork
3 stalks green onions, minced
1/4 cup (55g) ginger root, minced
1 cup (142g) water chestnuts, minced
1 tsp (5g) salt
3 tbsp (40g) sesame oil
2 tbsp (16g) corn starch

dough: (double this for the amount of filling, but easier to make it in 2 batches - or just halve the filling recipe)
2 cups (250g) all-purpose flour
1/2 cup (113g) warm water
flour for worksurface

dipping sauce:
2 parts soy sauce
1 part vinegar (red wine or black)
a few drops of sesame oil
chili garlic paste (optional)
minced ginger (optional)
minced garlic (optional)
minced green onion (optional)
sugar (optional)

Combine all filling ingredients in a large mixing bowl and mix thoroughly (I mix by clean hand). Cover and refrigerate until ready to use (up to a day, but preferably within an hour or two).

Make the dough, Method 1: Place the flour in the work bowl of a food processor with the dough blade. Run the processor and pour the warm water in until incorporated. Pour the contents into a sturdy bowl or onto a work surface and knead until uniform and smooth. The dough should be firm and silky to the touch and not sticky.[Note: it’s better to have a moist dough and have to incorporate more flour than to have a dry and pilling dough and have to incorporate more water).

Make the dough, Method 2 (my mom’s instructions): In a large bowl mix flour with 1/4 cup of water and stir until water is absorbed. Continue adding water one teaspoon at a time and mixing thoroughly until dough pulls away from sides of bowl. We want a firm dough that is barely sticky to the touch.

[EDIT: 5/26/09] There have been two complaints posted about a dry dough and I realize that this rests in the problem of measuring flour which has a different density and hence weight for 2 cups depending on how you scoop it. That is why I also list the weight: 250g. Flour tends to settle over time, so when I scoop it out, I shake several cups' worth back into the container before taking a final scoop of soft, fluffy, flour and I get 250g for 2 cups. When you knead the dough, if it feels hard and dry, then you can add more water. [Warning: it will NOT be a soft bread dough, so don't expect it to be, but it shouldn't be a brick either.] It is perfectly fine to use more than the 1/2 cup listed in the recipe as everyone's climate and flours vary. Use your judgment - this is what being a Daring Cook is about. We are trying to cultivate a sense of intuition so that recipes are general guidelines from which you can expand your own style.

Both dough methods: Knead the dough about twenty strokes then cover with a damp towel for 15 minutes. Take the dough and form a flattened dome. Cut into strips about 1 1/2 to 2 inches wide. Shape the strips into rounded long cylinders. On a floured surface, cut the strips into 3/4 inch pieces. Press palm down on each piece to form a flat circle (you can shape the corners in with your fingers). With a rolling pin, roll out a circular wrapper from each flat disc. Take care not to roll out too thin or the dumplings will break during cooking - about 1/16th inch. Leave the centers slightly thicker than the edges. Place a tablespoon of filling in the center of each wrapper and fold the dough in half, pleating the edges along one side (see images in post for how to fold pleats). Keep all unused dough under damp cloth.

To boil: Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add dumplings to pot. Boil the dumplings until they float.

To steam: Place dumplings on a single layer of napa cabbage leaves or on a well-greased surface in a steamer basket with lid. Steam covered for about 6 minutes.

To pan fry (potstickers): Place dumplings in a frying pan with 2-3 tbsp of vegetable oil. Heat on high and fry for a few minutes until bottoms are golden. Add 1/2 cup water and cover. Cook until the water has boiled away and then uncover and reduce heat to medium or medium low. Let the dumplings cook for another 2 minutes then remove from heat and serve.

To freeze: Assemble dumplings on a baking sheet so they are not touching. It helps to rub the base of the dumpling in a little flour before setting on the baking sheet for ease of release. Freeze for 20-30 minutes until dumplings are no longer soft. Place in ziploc bag and freeze for up to a couple of months. Prepare per the above instructions, but allow extra time to ensure the filling is thoroughly cooked.

To serve: Serve dumplings or potstickers hot with your choice of dipping sauce combinations.

Daring Bakers: Apple Strudel

The May Daring Bakers’ challenge was hosted by Linda of make life sweeter! and Courtney of  Coco Cooks. They chose Apple Strudel from the recipe book Kaffeehaus: Exquisite Desserts from the Classic Cafés of  Vienna, Budapest and Prague by Rick Rodgers.

When I took a quick glance at this month’s challenge I assumed this was going to be an apple version of the Danish Braid we made recently. I glanced at the ingredients and went shopping and when I had a couple hours free in the afternoon I finally read the recipe. “Strudel” not “strussel.” And there is a difference. A strudel is made by making a very thin sheet of filo-like dough, filling it and rolling it. The process reminded me of watching my mother make hand made filo dough for me for a project in fifth grade. She seemed to be having fun at the time (though she never did it again) and now that I’ve had a hand at the process I can certainly understand the appeal.

            It takes a little practice to get a good feel for the dough but it does stretch beautifully. The idea is to make a gluten rich dough of flour and water and let those proteins relax so they can be more easily stretched. For the filling I basically followed the recipe, dicing the apples rather than slicing them so they wouldn’t poke through the dough as it was rolled. I also used panko for the breadcrumbs but that didn't seem to make any noticeable difference. If I were to do it again I would glaze the top with an egg wash or drizzle it with a flat icing as it came out a little too dull. Enjoy!

 

Apple Strudel

Preparation time
Total: 2 hours 15 minutes – 3 hours 30 minutes

15-20 min to make dough
30-90 min to let dough rest/to prepare the filling
20-30 min to roll out and stretch dough
10 min to fill and roll dough
30 min to bake
30 min to cool

Apple strudel
from “Kaffeehaus – Exquisite Desserts from the Classic Cafés of Vienna, Budapest and Prague” by Rick Rodgers

2 tablespoons (30 ml) golden rum
3 tablespoons (45 ml) raisins
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon (80 g) sugar
1/2 cup (1 stick / 115 g) unsalted butter, melted, divided
1 1/2 cups (350 ml) fresh bread crumbs
strudel dough (recipe below)
1/2 cup (120 ml, about 60 g) coarsely chopped walnuts
2 pounds (900 g) tart cooking apples, peeled, cored and cut into ¼ inch-thick slices (use apples that hold their shape during baking)

1. Mix the rum and raisins in a bowl. Mix the cinnamon and sugar in another bowl.

2. Heat 3 tablespoons of the butter in a large skillet over medium-high. Add the breadcrumbs and cook whilst stirring until golden and toasted. This will take about 3 minutes. Let it cool completely.

3. Put the rack in the upper third of the oven and preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a large baking sheet with baking paper (parchment paper). Make the strudel dough as described below. Spread about 3 tablespoons of the remaining melted butter over the dough using your hands (a bristle brush could tear the dough, you could use a special feather pastry brush instead of your hands). Sprinkle the buttered dough with the bread crumbs. Spread the walnuts about 3 inches (8 cm) from the short edge of the dough in a 6-inch-(15cm)-wide strip. Mix the apples with the raisins (including the rum), and the cinnamon sugar. Spread the mixture over the walnuts.

4. Fold the short end of the dough onto the filling. Lift the tablecloth at the short end of the dough so that the strudel rolls onto itself. Transfer the strudel to the prepared baking sheet by lifting it. Curve it into a horseshoe to fit. Tuck the ends under the strudel. Brush the top with the remaining melted butter.

5. Bake the strudel for about 30 minutes or until it is deep golden brown. Cool for at least 30 minutes before slicing. Use a serrated knife and serve either warm or at room temperature. It is best on the day it is baked.

Strudel dough
from “Kaffeehaus – Exquisite Desserts from the Classic Cafés of Vienna, Budapest and Prague” by Rick Rodgers

1 1/3 cups (200 g) unbleached flour
1/8 teaspoon salt
7 tablespoons (105 ml) water, plus more if needed
2 tablespoons (30 ml) vegetable oil, plus additional for coating the dough
1/2 teaspoon cider vinegar

1. Combine the flour and salt in a stand-mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Mix the water, oil and vinegar in a measuring cup. Add the water/oil mixture to the flour with the mixer on low speed. You will get a soft dough. Make sure it is not too dry, add a little more water if necessary.
Take the dough out of the mixer. Change to the dough hook. Put the dough ball back in the mixer. Let the dough knead on medium until you get a soft dough ball with a somewhat rough surface.

2. Take the dough out of the mixer and continue kneading by hand on an unfloured work surface. Knead for about 2 minutes. Pick up the dough and throw it down hard onto your working surface occasionally.
Shape the dough into a ball and transfer it to a plate. Oil the top of the dough ball lightly. Cover the ball tightly with plastic wrap. Allow to stand for 30-90 minutes (longer is better).

3. It would be best if you have a work area that you can walk around on all sides like a 36 inch (90 cm) round table or a work surface of 23 x 38 inches (60 x 100 cm). Cover your working area with table cloth, dust it with flour and rub it into the fabric. Put your dough ball in the middle and roll it out as much as you can.
Pick the dough up by holding it by an edge. This way the weight of the dough and gravity can help stretching it as it hangs. Using the back of your hands to gently stretch and pull the dough. You can use your forearms to support it.

4. The dough will become too large to hold. Put it on your work surface. Leave the thicker edge of the dough to hang over the edge of the table. Place your hands underneath the dough and stretch and pull the dough thinner using the backs of your hands. Stretch and pull the dough until it's about 2 feet (60 cm) wide and 3 feet (90 cm) long, it will be tissue-thin by this time. Cut away the thick dough around the edges with scissors. The dough is now ready to be filled.

Tips
- Ingredients are cheap so we would recommend making a double batch of the dough, that way you can practice the pulling and stretching of the dough with the first batch and if it doesn't come out like it should you can use the second batch to give it another try;
- The tablecloth can be cotton or polyster;
- Before pulling and stretching the dough, remove your jewelry from hands and wrists, and wear short-sleeves;
- To make it easier to pull the dough, you can use your hip to secure the dough against the edge of the table;
- Few small holes in the dough is not a problem as the dough will be rolled, making (most of) the holes invisible.

Both Courtney and I did a trial run on making the strudel. Below are our notes:

Courtney's notes
- She could't get it to stretch to 2 feet by 3 feet, it turned out more like 2 feet by 2 feet. But the dough was tissue thin nevertheless;
- She got some serious holes, but after rolling it wasn't noticeable;
- She used a large cheese cloth which helped manipulate and stretch the dough more than a heavier cloth would have.

My notes
- I made the dough by hand, just mixed the wet ingredients into the dry ingredients with a wooden spoon. Kneaded it for about 5 min like you would bread dough. This worked as well. Haven't tried using a standmixer so I don't know how it compares.
- Instead of cider vinegar I used red wine vinegar;
- I used bread flour;
- Picking up the dough to let it stretch didn't work well for me, holes appeared pretty much instantly. Instead I stretched the dough while it was lying on the tablecloth by putting my hands underneath and stretching it out further and further;

First Daring Cooks Challenge: Zuni Ricotta Gnocchi

The Daring Bakers now has a second group going called "The Daring Cooks." Like Daring Bakers, this is a group of bloggers who commit to preparing and blogging about the same recipe and posting their results on the same day. The challenges are always great learning experiences and encourage creativity. I've loved the baking challenges so when they decided to launch the cooking challenges as well, I had to sign up! For more information or to sign up visit The Daring Kitchen. By the way, if you do sign up, and if you live in the Houston area, feel free to contact me about tackling the challenge of the month together in the Urban Chef kitchen.

 

And now for the challenge:

I make regular potato gnocchi frequently enough and I’ve made ricotta gnocchi (also called gnudi) before but this recipe was a bit more of a challenge. The previous gnudi recipe included some flour mixed in with the ricotta which helps a lot in forming the dumplings. This recipe is essentially soft cheese and eggs lightly coated in flour. While I did drain the ricotta for 24 hours it may still have been a bit wet. I think I’ll tackle it again this weekend.

Apart from the difficulty of handling the dough, the flavor and texture were great. I prepared the nutmeg version and paired mine with a simple veal and tomato sauce.

One quick tip, using whole milk ricotta results in the smoothest texture. Bon appétit!

Zuni Ricotta Gnocchi

Source: From The Zuni Café Cookbook.

Yield: Makes 40 to 48 gnocchi (serves 4 to 6)

Prep time: Step 1 will take 24 hours. Steps 2 through 4 will take approximately 1 hour.

Tips:

- If you can find it, use fresh ricotta. As Judy Rodgers advises in her recipe, there is no substitute for fresh ricotta. It may be a bit more expensive, but it's worth it.
- Do not skip the draining step. Even if the fresh ricotta doesn't look very wet, it is. Draining the ricotta will help your gnocchi tremendously.
- When shaping your gnocchi, resist the urge to over handle them. It's okay if they look a bit wrinkled or if they're not perfectly smooth.
- If you're not freezing the gnocchi for later, cook them as soon as you can. If you let them sit around too long they may become a bit sticky.
- For the variations to the challenge recipe, please see the end of the recipe.

Equipment required:

- Sieve
- Cheesecloth or paper towels
- Large mixing bowl
- Rubber spatula
- Tablespoon
- Baking dish or baking sheet
- Wax or parchment paper
- Small pot
- Large skillet
- Large pan or pot (very wide in diameter and at least 2 inches deep)

Videos that might help:

- Judy Rodgers Gnocchi Demo
- Making fresh ricotta demo
- Making ricotta gnocchi

For the gnocchi:

1 pound (454 grams/16 ounces) fresh ricotta (2 cups)
2 large cold eggs, lightly beaten
1 tablespoon (1/2 ounce) unsalted butter
2 or 3 fresh sage leaves, or a few pinches of freshly grated nutmeg, or a few pinches of chopped lemon zest (all optional)
½ ounce Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated (about ¼ cup very lightly packed)
about ¼ teaspoon salt (a little more if using kosher salt)
all-purpose flour for forming the gnocchi

For the gnocchi sauce:

8 tablespoons (227 grams/1/4 pound/4 ounces) butter, sliced
2 teaspoons water

Step 1 (the day before you make the gnocchi): Preparing the ricotta.

If the ricotta is too wet, your gnocchi will not form properly. In her cookbook, Judy Rodgers recommends checking the ricotta’s wetness. To test the ricotta, take a teaspoon or so and place it on a paper towel. If you notice a very large ring of dampness forming around the ricotta after a minute or so, then the ricotta is too wet. To remove some of the moisture, line a sieve with cheesecloth or paper towels and place the ricotta in the sieve. Cover it and let it drain for at least 8 hours and up to 24 hours in the refrigerator. Alternatively, you can wrap the ricotta carefully in cheesecloth (2 layers) and suspend it in your refrigerator for 8 to 24 hours with a bowl underneath to catch the water that’s released. Either way, it’s recommended that you do this step the day before you plan on making the gnocchi.

Step 2 (the day you plan on eating the gnocchi): Making the gnocchi dough.

To make great gnocchi, the ricotta has to be fairly smooth. Place the drained ricotta in a large bowl and mash it as best as you can with a rubber spatula or a large spoon (it’s best to use a utensil with some flexibility here). As you mash the ricotta, if you noticed that you can still see curds, then press the ricotta through a strainer to smooth it out as much as possible.

Add the lightly beaten eggs to the mashed ricotta.

Melt the tablespoon of butter. As it melts, add in the sage if you’re using it. If not, just melt the butter and add it to the ricotta mixture.

Add in any flavouring that you’re using (i.e., nutmeg, lemon zest, etc.). If you’re not using any particular flavouring, that’s fine.

Add the Parmigiano-Reggiano and the salt.

Beat all the ingredients together very well. You should end up with a soft and fluffy batter with no streaks (everything should be mixed in very well).

Step 3: Forming the gnocchi.

Fill a small pot with water and bring to a boil. When it boils, salt the water generously and keep it at a simmer. You will use this water to test the first gnocchi that you make to ensure that it holds together and that your gnocchi batter isn’t too damp.

In a large, shallow baking dish or on a sheet pan, make a bed of all-purpose flour that’s ½ an inch deep.

With a spatula, scrape the ricotta mixture away from the sides of the bowl and form a large mass in the centre of your bowl.

Using a tablespoon, scoop up about 2 to 3 teaspoons of batter and then holding the spoon at an angle, use your finger tip to gently push the ball of dough from the spoon into the bed of flour.

At this point you can either shake the dish or pan gently to ensure that the flour covers the gnocchi or use your fingers to very gently dust the gnocchi with flour. Gently pick up the gnocchi and cradle it in your hand rolling it to form it in an oval as best as you can, at no point should you squeeze it. What you’re looking for is an oval lump of sorts that’s dusted in flour and plump.

Gently place your gnocchi in the simmering water. It will sink and then bob to the top. From the time that it bobs to the surface, you want to cook the gnocchi until it’s just firm. This could take 3 to 5 minutes.

If your gnocchi begins to fall apart, this means that the ricotta cheese was probably still too wet. You can remedy this by beating a teaspoon of egg white into your gnocchi batter. If your gnocchi batter was fluffy but the sample comes out heavy, add a teaspoon of beaten egg to the batter and beat that in. Test a second gnocchi to ensure success.

Form the rest of your gnocchi. You can put 4 to 6 gnocchi in the bed of flour at a time. But don’t overcrowd your bed of flour or you may damage your gnocchi as you coat them.

Have a sheet pan ready to rest the formed gnocchi on. Line the sheet pan with wax or parchment paper and dust it with flour.

You can cook the gnocchi right away, however, Judy Rodgers recommends storing them in the refrigerator for an hour prior to cooking to allow them to firm up.

Step 4: Cooking the gnocchi.

Have a large skillet ready to go. Place the butter and water for the sauce in the skillet and set aside.

In the largest pan or pot that you have (make sure it’s wide), bring at least 2 quarts of water to a boil (you can use as much as 3 quarts of water if your pot permits). You need a wide pot or pan so that your gnocchi won’t bump into each other and damage each other.

Once the water is boiling, salt it generously.

Drop the gnocchi into the water one by one. Once they float to the top, cook them for 3 to 5 minutes (as in the case with the test gnocchi).

When the gnocchi float to the top, you can start your sauce while you wait for them to finish cooking.

Place the skillet over medium heat and melt the butter. Swirl it gently a few times as it melts. As soon as it melts and is incorporated with the water, turn off the heat. Your gnocchi should be cooked by now.

With a slotted spoon, remove the gnocchi from the boiling water and gently drop into the butter sauce. Carefully roll in the sauce until coated. Serve immediately.

Variations: For the gnocchi, you can flavour them however you wish. If you want to experiment by adding something to your gnocchi (i.e., caramelized onion, sundried tomato), feel free to do so. However, be forewarned, ricotta gnocchi are delicate and may not take well to elaborate additions. For the sauce, this is your chance to go nuts. Enjoy yourselves. Surprise us!!!

Freezing the gnocchi: If you don’t want to cook your gnocchi right away or if you don’t want to cook all of them, you can make them and freeze them. Once they are formed and resting on the flour-dusted, lined tray, place them uncovered in the freezer. Leave them for several hours to freeze. Once frozen, place them in a plastic bag. Remove the air and seal the bag. Return to the freezer. To cook frozen gnocchi, remove them from the bag and place individually on a plate or on a tray. Place in the refrigerator to thaw completely. Cook as directed for fresh gnocchi.

Classic Cheesecake

The April 2009 challenge is hosted by Jenny from Jenny Bakes. She has chosen Abbey's Infamous Cheesecake as the challenge.

For the last ten years or so I think I've been using variations on the same tried and true New York cheesecake recipe from Rose Levy Barenbaum. It's a fabulous recipe, rich, creamy, tangy, sophisticated... But this month challenge used a slightly different recipe and to stay true to the Daring Bakers challenge I gave it a shot. There are some distinct differences, namely proportions and the use of heavy cream instead of sour cream. Heavy cream gave this cheesecake a slightly less assertive tang but it was still quite good. Fewer eggs made the cake a bit more creamy than I usually like. Also, I think I should have baked mine perhaps ten minutes longer as I like mine just a little more firm. I varied the recipe by using chocolate chip cookies to make the crust (that's all I could find in my pantry) and I used chocolate hazelnut liquer in the batter although I think I would use a more assertive flavoring such as ameretto next time.

I used Barenbaums wonderful White Chocolate Cream Cheese Buttercream to frost this cake (recipe follows). This buttercream is absolutely perfect for carrot cake or for dressing up a cheesecake. As for the decorating itself I must give Lydia some "credit" for her contribution to the design. Namely, how do you decorate a cake when a four year old insists on being the one to hold the piping bag? But, I must admit it came out more whimsical that it would have had I been on my own - thanks Lydia!

Enjoy!

Abbey's Infamous Cheesecake:

crust:
2 cups / 180 g graham cracker crumbs
1 stick / 4 oz butter, melted
2 tbsp. / 24 g sugar
1 tsp. vanilla extract

cheesecake:
3 sticks of cream cheese, 8 oz each (total of 24 oz) room temperature
1 cup / 210 g sugar
3 large eggs
1 cup / 8 oz heavy cream
1 tbsp. lemon juice
1 tbsp. vanilla extract (or the innards of a vanilla bean)
1 tbsp liqueur, optional, but choose what will work well with your cheesecake

DIRECTIONS:
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees F (Gas Mark 4 = 180C = Moderate heat). Begin to boil a large pot of water for the water bath.

2. Mix together the crust ingredients and press into your preferred pan. You can press the crust just into the bottom, or up the sides of the pan too - baker's choice. Set crust aside.

3. Combine cream cheese and sugar in the bowl of a stand-mixer (or in a large bowl if using a hand-mixer) and cream together until smooth. Add eggs, one at a time, fully incorporating each before adding the next. Make sure to scrape down the bowl in between each egg. Add heavy cream, vanilla, lemon juice, and alcohol and blend until smooth and creamy.

4. Pour batter into prepared crust and tap the pan on the counter a few times to bring all air bubbles to the surface. Place pan into a larger pan and pour boiling water into the larger pan until halfway up the side of the cheesecake pan. If cheesecake pan is not airtight, cover bottom securely with foil before adding water.

5. Bake 45 to 55 minutes, until it is almost done - this can be hard to judge, but you're looking for the cake to hold together, but still have a lot of jiggle to it in the center. You don't want it to be completely firm at this stage. Close the oven door, turn the heat off, and let rest in the cooling oven for one hour. This lets the cake finish cooking and cool down gently enough so that it won't crack on the top. After one hour, remove cheesecake from oven and lift carefully out of water bath. Let it finish cooling on the counter, and then cover and put in the fridge to chill. Once fully chilled, it is ready to serve.

Pan note: The creator of this recipe used to use a springform pan, but no matter how well she wrapped the thing in tin foil, water would always seep in and make the crust soggy. Now she uses one of those 1-use foil "casserole" shaped pans from the grocery store. They're 8 or 9 inches wide and really deep, and best of all, water-tight. When it comes time to serve, just cut the foil away.

Prep notes: While the actual making of this cheesecake is a minimal time commitment, it does need to bake for almost an hour, cool in the oven for an hour, and chill overnight before it is served. Please plan accordingly!

Some variations from the recipe creator:

** Lavender-scented cheesecake w/ blueberries - heat the cup of heavy cream in the microwave or a saucepan until hot but not boiling. Add 2 tbsp of lavender flowers and stir. Let lavender steep in the cream for about 10-15 minutes, then strain the flowers out. Add strained cream to cheesecake batter as normal. Top with fresh blueberries, or make a quick stovetop blueberry sauce (splash of orange juice, blueberries, a little bit of sugar, and a dash of cinnamon - cook until berries burst, then cool)

** Cafe au lait cheesecake with caramel - take 1/4 cup of the heavy cream and heat it in the microwave for a short amount of time until very hot. Add 1-2 tbsp. instant espresso or instant coffee; stir to dissolve. Add this to the remainder of cream and use as normal. Top cheesecake with homemade caramel sauce (I usually find one on the food network website - just make sure it has heavy cream in it. You can use store-bought in a pinch, but the flavor is just not the same since its usually just sugar and corn syrup with no dairy).

** Tropical – add about a half cup of chopped macadamias to the crust, then top the cake with a mango-raspberry-mandarin orange puree.

** Mexican Turtle - add a bar of melted dark chocolate (between 3 and 5 oz., to taste) to the batter, along with a teaspoon of cinnamon and a dash of cayenne pepper (about 1/8 tsp.). Top it with pecan halves and a homemade caramel sauce.

** Honey-cinnamon with port-pomegranate poached pears – replace 1/2 cup of the sugar with 1/2 cup of honey, add about a teaspoon or more (to taste) of cinnamon. Take 2 pears (any variety you like or whatever is in season), peeled and cored, and poach them in a boiling poaching liquid of port wine, pomegranate juice/seeds, a couple of "coins" of fresh ginger, a cinnamon stick, and about a 1/4 cup of sugar. Poach them until tender, then let cool. Strain the poaching liquid and simmer until reduced to a syrupy-glaze consistency, then cool. Thinly slice the cooled pears and fan them out atop the cooled cheesecake. Pour the cooled poaching syrup over the pears, then sprinkle the top with chopped walnuts and fresh pomegranate seeds.

Some variations from Jenny (from JennyBakes):

**Key lime - add zest from one lime to sugar before mixing with cream cheese. Substitute lemon juice, alcohol, and vanilla with key lime juice.

**Cheesecakelets - put in muffin tins, ramekins, or custard cups. Try baking 20-35 minutes, or until still a little jiggly, and cool as before.

ETA: I have this in a Google doc, so you can

White Chocolate Cream Cheese Buttercream

9 ounces white chocolate (it has to be real white chocolate), melted and cooled

12 ounces cream cheese

6 ounces unsalted butter, softened

1 1/2 Tablespoons lemon juice

Cream the cream cheese and add the white chocolate. Add the butter and lemon juice. Refrigerate for 30 minutes to bring the buttercream to a more manageable consistency. If it has firmed too much bring back to room temperature before using.

Truly Italian Lasagna

The March 2009 challenge is hosted by Mary of Beans and Caviar, Melinda of Melbourne Larder and Enza of Io Da Grande. They have chosen Lasagne of Emilia-Romagna from The Splendid Table by Lynne Rossetto Kasper as the challenge.

Lasagna was one of the first dishes I ever made on my own. I think I must have been in seventh or eight grade when my parents let me find all the ingredients in the grocery store, brown the meat, cook the pasta and layer it up. I would follow the box directions adding mushrooms and sausage and the results were delicious. I remember preparing lasagna for friends in late highschool and early college. At that point I had only a handful of great dishes. As I recall I must have left an enormous mess to be cleaned up after my efforts.

Since culinary school more than ten years ago I may have made lasagna less than five times. It always seems a bit too common or eighties to me. But this recipe is a great reintroduction to lasagna. The noodles are hand made, the sauce is made from scratch with prosciutto and pancetta along with veal and pork, and there is no ricotta included to mute any flavors.

The results were fabulous but I ran into a major time crunch. Speeding through the recipe I didn't take photos until the end. I would suggest allowing a couple hours to put the dish together and let it bake. I did use a pasta maker that I've had since college. While I generally don't recommend specialized equipment it does make easier work of fresh pasta and I use it rather often.

Here's the recipe:

Lasagne of Emilia-Romagna (Lasagne Verdi al Forno)
(Serves 8 to 10 as a first course, 6 to 8 as a main dish)

Preparation Time: 15 minutes to assemble and 40 minutes cooking time

10 quarts (9 litres) salted water
1 recipe Spinach Pasta cut for lasagna (recipe follows)#1
1 recipe Bechamel Sauce (recipe follows)#2
1 recipe Country Style Ragu (recipe follows)#3
1 cup (4 ounces/125g) freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Method
Working Ahead:
The ragu  and the béchamel sauce can be made up to three days ahead. The ragu can also be frozen for up to one month. The pasta can be rolled out, cut and dried up to 24 hours before cooking. The assembled lasagne can wait at room temperature (20 degrees Celsius/68 degrees Fahrenheit) about 1 hour before baking. Do not refrigerate it before baking, as the topping of béchamel and cheese will overcook by the time the center is hot.

Assembling the Ingredients:
Have all the sauces, rewarmed gently over a medium heat, and the pasta at hand. Have a large perforated skimmer and a large bowl of cold water next to the stove. Spread a double thickness of paper towels over a large counter space. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit (180 degrees Celsius). Oil or butter a 3 quart (approx 3 litre) shallow baking dish.

Cooking the Pasta:
Bring the salted water to a boil. Drop about four pieces of pasta in the water at a time. Cook about 2 minutes. If you are using dried pasta, cook about 4 minutes, taste, and cook longer if necessary. The pasta will continue cooking during baking, so make sure it is only barely tender. Lift the lasagne from the water with a skimmer, drain, and then slip into the bowl of cold water to stop cooking. When cool, lift out and dry on the paper towels. Repeat until all the pasta is cooked.

Assembling the Lasagne:
Spread a thin layer of béchamel over the bottom of the baking dish. Arrange a layer of about four overlapping sheets of pasta over the béchamel. Spread a thin layer of béchamel (about 3 or 4 spoonfuls) over the pasta, and then an equally thin layer of the ragu. Sprinkle with about 1&1/2 tablespoons of the béchamel and about 1/3 cup of the cheese. Repeat the layers until all ingredients are used, finishing with béchamel sauce and topping with a generous dusting of cheese.

Baking and Serving the Lasagne:
Cover the baking dish lightly with foil, taking care not to let it touch the top of the lasagne. Bake 40 minutes, or until almost heated through. Remove the foil and bake another 10 minutes, or until hot in the center (test by inserting a knife – if  it comes out very warm, the dish is ready). Take care not to brown the cheese topping. It should be melted, creamy looking and barely tinged with a little gold. Turn off the oven, leave the door ajar and let the lasagne rest for about 10 minutes. Then serve. This is not a solid lasagne, but a moist one that slips a bit when it is cut and served.

#1 Spinach Egg Pasta (Pasta Verde)

Preparation: 45 minutes

Makes enough for 6 to 8 first course servings or 4 to 6 main course servings, equivalent to 1 pound (450g) dried boxed pasta.

2 jumbo eggs (2 ounces/60g or more)
10 ounces (300g) fresh spinach, rinsed dry, and finely chopped; or 6 ounces (170g) frozen chopped spinach, defrosted and squeezed dry
3&1/2 cups (14 ounces/400g) all purpose unbleached (plain) flour (organic stone ground preferred)

Working by Hand:

Equipment

A roomy work surface, 24 to 30 inches deep by 30 to 36 inches (60cm to 77cm deep by 60cm to 92cm). Any smooth surface will do, but marble cools dough slightly, making it less flexible than desired.

A pastry scraper and a small wooden spoon for blending the dough.

A wooden dowel-style rolling pin. In Italy, pasta makers use one about 35 inches long and 2 inches thick (89cm long and 5cm thick). The shorter American-style pin with handles at either end can be used, but the longer it is, the easier it is to roll the pasta.
Note: although it is not traditional, Enza has successfully made pasta with a marble rolling pin, and this can be substituted for the wooden pin, if you have one.

Plastic wrap to wrap the resting dough and to cover rolled-out pasta waiting to be filled. It protects the pasta from drying out too quickly.

A sharp chef’s knife for cutting pasta sheets.

Cloth-covered chair backs, broom handles, or specially designed pasta racks found in cookware shops for draping the pasta.

Mixing the dough:
Mound the flour in the center of your work surface and make a well in the middle. Add the eggs and spinach. Use a wooden spoon to beat together the eggs and spinach. Then gradually start incorporating shallow scrapings of flour from the sides of the well into the liquid. As you work more and more flour into the liquid, the well’s sides may collapse. Use a pastry scraper to keep the liquids from running off and to incorporate the last bits of flour into the dough. Don’t worry if it looks like a hopelessly rough and messy lump.

Kneading:
With the aid of the scraper to scoop up unruly pieces, start kneading the dough. Once it becomes a cohesive mass, use the scraper to remove any bits of hard flour on the work surface – these will make the dough lumpy. Knead the dough for about 3 minutes. Its consistency should be elastic and a little sticky. If it is too sticky to move easily, knead in a few more tablespoons of flour. Continue kneading about 10 minutes, or until the dough has become satiny, smooth, and very elastic. It will feel alive under your hands. Do not shortcut this step. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap, and let it relax at room temperature 30 minutes to 3 hours.

Stretching and Thinning:
If using an extra-long rolling pin work with half the dough at a time. With a regular-length rolling pin, roll out a quarter of the dough at a time and keep the rest of the dough wrapped. Lightly sprinkle a large work surface with flour. The idea is to stretch the dough rather than press down and push it. Shape it into a ball and begin rolling out to form a circle, frequently turning the disc of dough a quarter turn. As it thins outs, start rolling the disc back on the pin a quarter of the way toward the center and stretching it gently sideways by running the palms of your hands over the rolled-up dough from the center of the pin outward. Unroll, turn the disc a quarter turn, and repeat. Do twice more.

Stretch and even out the center of the disc by rolling the dough a quarter of the way back on the pin. Then gently push the rolling pin away from you with one hand while holding the sheet in place on the work surface with the other hand. Repeat three more times, turning the dough a quarter turn each time.

Repeat the two processes as the disc becomes larger and thinner. The goal is a sheet of even thickness. For lasagne, the sheet should be so thin that you can clearly see your hand through it and see colours. Cut into rectangles about 4 by 8 inches (10 x 20 cm). Note: Enza says that transparency is a crucial element of lasagne pasta and the dough should be rolled as thinly as possible. She says this is why her housekeeper has such strong arms!

Dry the pasta at room temperature and store in a sealed container or bag.

#2 Bechamel

Preparation Time: 15 minutes

4 tablespoons (2 ounces/60g) unsalted butter
4 tablespoons (2 ounces/60g) all purpose unbleached (plain) flour, organic stone ground preferred
2&2/3 cups (approx 570ml) milk
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Freshly grated nutmeg to taste

Using a medium-sized saucepan, melt the butter over low to medium heat. Sift over the flour, whisk until smooth, and then stir (without stopping) for about 3 minutes. Whisk in the milk a little at a time and keep the mixture smooth. Bring to a slow simmer, and stir 3 to 4 minutes, or until the sauce thickens. Cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, until the sauce thickens. Season with salt, pepper, and a hint of nutmeg.

#3 Country Style Ragu’ (Ragu alla Contadina)

Preparation Time: Ingredient Preparation Time 30 minutes and Cooking time 2 hours

Makes enough sauce for 1 recipe fresh pasta or 1 pound/450g dried pasta)

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (45 mL)
2 ounces/60g pancetta, finely chopped
1 medium onion, minced
1 medium stalk celery with leaves, minced
1 small carrot, minced
4 ounces/125g boneless veal shoulder or round
4 ounces/125g pork loin, trimmed of fat, or 4 ounces/125g mild Italian sausage (made without fennel)
8 ounces/250g beef skirt steak, hanging tender, or boneless chuck blade or chuck center cut (in order of preference)
1 ounce/30g thinly sliced Prosciutto di Parma
2/3 cup (5 ounces/160ml) dry red wine
1 &1/2 cups (12 ounces/375ml) chicken or beef stock (homemade if possible)
2 cups (16 ounces/500ml) milk
3 canned plum tomatoes, drained
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Working Ahead:
The ragu can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and refrigerate. It also freezes well for up to 1 month. Skim the fat from the ragu’ before using it.

Browning the Ragu Base:
Heat the olive oil in a 12 inch (30cm) skillet (frying pan) over medium-high heat. Have a large saucepan handy to use once browning is complete. Add the pancetta and minced vegetables and sauté, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon, 10 minutes, or until the onions barely begin to color. Coarsely grind all the meats together, including the prosciutto, in a food processor or meat grinder. Stir into the pan and slowly brown over medium heat. First the meats will give off a liquid and turn dull grey but, as the liquid evaporates, browning will begin. Stir often, scooping under the meats with the wooden spatula. Protect the brown glaze forming on the bottom of the pan by turning the heat down. Cook 15 minutes, or until the meats are a deep brown. Turn the contents of the skillet into a strainer and shake out the fat. Turn them into the saucepan and set over medium heat.

Reducing and Simmering: Add the wine to the skillet, lowering the heat so the sauce bubbles quietly. Stir occasionally until the wine has reduced by half, about 3 minutes. Scrape up the brown glaze as the wine bubbles. Then pour the reduced wine into the saucepan and set the skillet aside.

Stir ½ cup stock into the saucepan and let it bubble slowly, 10 minutes, or until totally evaporated. Repeat with another ½ cup stock. Stir in the last 1/2 cup stock along with the milk. Adjust heat so the liquid bubbles very slowly. Partially cover the pot, and cook 1 hour. Stir frequently to check for sticking.

Add the tomatoes, crushing them as they go into the pot. Cook uncovered, at a very slow bubble for another 45 minutes, or until the sauce resembles a thick, meaty stew. Season with salt and pepper.

Thanksgiving: The Turducken Episode - Day 2

    Thursday morning I was glad I had deboned the birds earlier. I spent some time just making three types of stuffing and using all six burners at once in the process. It took a while to remove the skin from the duck and chicken as well and I was feeling under the gun to get the stuffed bird roasting by 11:30AM at the latest. We got everything done just in time with the turducken stuffed with sausage stuffing, mushroom stuffing and shrimp and cornbread dressing.
    The challenges began after the birds were layered. I used a reusable silicone trussing "thread" to close up the turducken. I discovered I should have put a thinner layer of dressing between each bird as it was difficult to cinch closed. Ultimately the task was completed.
    The next problem was that many of the directions called for roasting the bird at 190 or 200F for about 12 hours. That would place us eating after midnight. I suppose I could have started the dressings at 2AM but that wasn't going to happen. Besides, the FDA seems to believe this is not the safest way to cook turducken and I can understand their point. So I resorted to the Glad oven bag method that my family used when I was growing up. According to package directions as stuffed 20 pound bird should take about 4 1/2 hours at 350.
    The final problem was that I didn't want to let the turducken sit soaking in it's own juices. I usually make a bed of large cut mirpoix when I roast but I didn't think that it would give enough clearance. So we placed a roasting rack inside the bag and struggled to get the turducken to sit adequately on top. Here the disadvantages of the turkey being deboned emerged. There was certainly a lack of structure so if you are going to attempt this I recommend being prepared for thed difficulty of moving the turkey. In retrospect a cheese cloth sling may have helped (if anyone tries using a cheese cloth sling I'd love to know if that helped or if it just made the whole process more complicated).
    With the birds in the oven, in the bag, on the rack I moved on to the roasted garlic and asiago mashed potatoes, asparaus filo wraps, cranberry sorbet, and other assorted sides and forgot about the turducken for the next few hours. Around 4PM we decided to check the temp and punched a thermometer right through the bag. The temp was around 150 and I decided that with carryover cooking we'd be fine. Half an hour later I started peeling the plastic bag off the top of the turkey and wishing I had remembered to butter the top yet convincing myself it would have stuck anyway. When the bag was finally off and the skin was mostly salvaged I called Sam over to help move the turducken to a serving platter. Once again I am thinking that a cheese cloth sling would have been a good idea. If a cheese cloth sling is used to transfer the turducken to roast it, leave it in place so you can just lift the bird onto the serving platter.
    Then the rush began to get all the other sides on the table and to finally eat before we had all had too much beer to make room for dinner.

    Although I believe that stuffing birds may have come out the inspiration any cook might feel (there's a space, let's fill it up with good stuff), my father-in-law suggested that stuffing birds began as a means to help the meat go further so that stuffing one bird inside the other misses the point. We did end up eating less than half the turducken and that was with 12 adults and three children. We could have fed at least another dozen people.

    The final verdict: Three perfectly cooked nested birds with yummy dressings. The gravy from the turducken drippigns was wonderful! The birds themselves were moist and seasoned. On the other hand it was certainly the most complicated Thanksgiving turkey I've ever done and had a number of challenges. If you are easily frustrated in the kitchen it might not be the best method to attempt. It took help from Sam in maneurvering the turducken and even in holding it closed to truss it. In the end it was satisfying to serve all three layers of bird and three layers of stuffing.

Thanksgiving: The Turducken episode - Day 1

This year I decided that in addition to the usual full menu I would tackle a Turducken. The turducken has been getting a bit more attention lately so you have probably heard of it but in case you haven't it is a turkey stuffed with a duck stuffed with a chicken. As I gather, the turducken stems from a fairly long European tradition of multiple bird/beast roasts for elaborate feasts. The ultimate ones I've heard of include a suckling pig, stuffed with a goose, stuffed with a duck, stuffed with a chicken, stuffed with a cornish hen, stuffed with a quail stuffed with foie gras. I contemplated adding the cornish hen and/or quail and foie gras but as I was standing in the grocery store staring at the quail I decided it was too small to debone. Sure, it could be done, but that time was better spent playing with the kids.
    In the States the turkey/duck/chicken combination seams to have started in Louisiana. This is no surprise as Creole cooking is strongly shaped by the French chefs that came to the area. There are a few companies that make these turducken and will ship it to you frozen or you can pick up a frozen one at the grocery store in some places (in Houston try the new HEB on I-10 near Gessner).
    There are some drawbacks to purchasing a prepared turducken. As I gather from comments and  reviews I've found online and in Cook's Illustrated, the layers don't remain properly distributed and only the breast meat is used for the interior birds. Not to mention you miss out on the fun of deboning three birds for one meal.
    So I decided to debone my own birds and make three different stuffings. I started with a 20 pound turkey, a 6 pound duck and a 5 pound chicken. I've deboned many chickens at this point and that helped a lot. I've never deboned a turkey or a duck and if anyone is planning on doing a turducken from scratch I highly recommend doing a few chickens first. Speed is important because you don't want your birds out on the counter for too long. It took me just over 20 minutes to do the turkey. I didn't count on it being so difficult to handle but the weight was an issue and I wasn't strong enough to press the wings and thighs out of joint so I had to cut through them. Otherwise it went well.
    The duck surprised me because although I've cooked whole duck I never had much occasion to notice the flexibility of the bones. They are quite different from chickens in that respect and the duck lays rather flat. APart from that, the duck is fairly similar. It took 15 minutes to debone the duck and I plan to remove the skin before I start layering the birds.
    The chicken was done in 8 minutes. That may seem relatively fast but I remember watching my chef in culinary school debone a chicken in about a minute and a half, slowing down to show us what we were supposed to do.
    With the birds deboned and the stock simmering I'm off to make the desserts...

Stinky fruit!

I have been intrigued by durian for years because of their cool spiky shell and high price. I hadn't heard much about them until recently. I was shopping with a friend who pointed them out and I decided to try the frozen pulp to avoid having to open one up in the house.
Some of my friend's pointers: the stinkier they are the more ripe they tend to be so they will have a better flavor and texture. The larger the pieces of pulp or fruit the more likely it is to be flavorful.
So I bought a package with the largest pieces of pulp I could find and it didn't start being stinky until it was defrosted and the package was opened. It was certainly stinky (along the lines of old carcass I guess but I wouldn't really know since I've never smelled an old carcass). But it tasted fabulous! It was easy to get past the scent knowing that it was supposed to taste great. It tastes like a wonderfully silky custard. 
If your shopping for them in Houston a lot of the Asian grocery stores carry them frozen. I recommend eating them outside and be forewarned that the scent is hard to get away from!

I heard on NPR that someone is developing a non-stinky version of durian. I can understand why but I wonder what would be lost in not having that odor as you eat it. I'm afraid it might be like having an odorless cheese.

Hurricane Ike: Best Meals

Here's what I forgot to do: clean out my freezer and stock it with ice.

So by Tuesday many things in the chest freezer were starting to defrost but were still cold. There were pounds of beef, dolmas, filo dough... We ate the ice cream first thing Saturday morning but now we couldn't reasonably eat 25 pounds of beef.

As we were dumping everything into bags I came across $25 worth of foie gras! This is the raw, vacuum sealed package that you can use to make pate. It was still cold and firm and quite worth hanging onto. We were heading back to Sam's parent's house (they had their power back and we'd been staying with them) so we grabbed some of the wine I had thought to buy. Sam's dad had baked a fabulous loaf of bread that afternoon. Food wise, this was a memorable moment!

We got our power back the next day, things are basicly back to normal. But I've learned the hard way not to fill my chest freezer up with more food than I can reasonably eat. I've put things in there that I figured I would want to cook at some point and that point never came around. That lesson can surely transfer to many other areas of my life. Enjoy your foie gras while you have it.

Hurricane Ike Preparations

I have to confess that on some level I find hurricanes to be a pleasant foodie experience. Of course, I'm not right on the coast and I am not concerned that my house will flood but it does look like Houston is going to get hit by Ike and that has given me reason to prepare.
When Rita didn't come through I started thinking about it a bit late and ended up standing in the store amazed that there was no bottled water left and all the shelves seemed cleared of any edible canned goods. This time I did my shopping days in advance and was sure to pick up emergency culinary staples: wine, coconut milk, crab meat, etc.
I cleaned out my freezer and fridge earlier this week and found a number of items I'd love to put to use. If the power does go out we are supposed to go through food in the fridge first (scrambled eggs and caviar) then the freezer (I'll be making some sort of dessert using chocolate ganache and filo dough) and finally the pantry (perhaps some crab sopes).
And now we wait...